Tuesday 1 January 2008

Day 56: Saturday 17th November: Koh Samui

After our total inactivity yesterday we decided to hire a jeep to take us round the island. At 800 bahts or £12 a day this a bargain even though they were only 600 up the lane. Anne had decided she wanted to see a couple of waterfalls inland up in the hills and I just fancied seeing more of this supposed paradise.

The weather had other ideas and at one point the jeep operated more as a motorboat. I enjoyed a beer and a sandwich in a lovely bar on the south of the island. Before we could head off to find the waterfalls we needed petrol. The station was manned by a young smiley woman with a child and when I asked for petrol she answered 'two litre bottle or one'? When I pointed to the pump she said 'diesel no petrol'. Whether she had petrol or not was irrelevant as I suddenly realised the only key I had did not fit the petrol cap. When I pointed this out she took the key, shoved it as far into the keyhole which was not very far and started to twist it back and forth so hard that I feared the key would break. She then pulled out the key and screwed the cap off. Things got more bizaar when she emerged from her attendants cabin with a 2 litre plastic water bottle filled with what looked like Tizer and started trying to pour it into the tank but spilled most of it. After a further attempt with a funnel she gave up and fetched a whiskey bottle with a long neck and after slapping it into the hole stood and watched as it glug glug glugged its way into the tank. This was repeated until she'd emptied 4 litres of the red stuff into the tank.

As we got out of the jeep at the lower of the two falls Anne noticed the funnel rolling about in the back of the jeep. The first of the falls was impressive but we agreed it was not in the same league as High Force in England. The second was more interesting because of its location further up the hill in the forest. The guide book said it was a 10 minute walk whilst the young man trying to sell us an elephant ride up to it said 25 to 30 minute walk up very steep terrain. Unfortunately the elephant boy was right and with something like 70 percent humidity it was very hard work indeed. We were just enjoying the fruits of our labour when a large group of Germans arrived to spoil the peace and quiet. Time to return the funnel.

Our next site was prominent on postcards of the island and consisted of two large rocks by the sea one called the grandfather and the other grandmother. Why they were called this was a mystery to me. One was shaped like a large penis and the other, of course, had a large crack in it shaped very much like Virgina. I can see the male and female connection but not the grandparents. If they had wrinkles perhaps. But who knows.

Anyway the site was well signed and even had a car park. The sign took us from the car park, down onto the beach, up and over a series of rocks that even included a bull rope with knots to lower you back on the each and finally up another steep climb to the objects. In all a stiff 300 metre. When we raised our heads over the final hurdle we found ourselves in the company of bars and restaurants, an old man singing songs to a guitar and drum accompaniment, a number of Buddhist monks having their photos taken and an avenue of stalls selling clothes and mementos which lead all the way back up to the road. Once back on the road it was less than a 30 foot walk to our car. No signs announced the shorter more direct route ideal for old crocks like us.

Final destination of the day took us to Bophut a fisherman's village. This was probably the most beautiful place on the island consisting of proper shops and restaurants although there was an English pub doing roast beef and Yorkshire pud on Sundays and an Irish pub selling Guinness and Irish Stew. We settled on a beautiful beach side restaurant with palm trees encircled by lights. Unfortunately the food did not live up to the location but enhanced a very interesting and pleasant day. Once back at the resort we once again took advantage of the good music and cocktails on the beach and caught up with the day's gossip.

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